What is Blackwork?

Blackwork is a style of stitching popular in the 16th/17th centuries where the design is usually worked in black on white fabric, normally silk or linen, using Holbein stitch (double running stitch) so that the embroidered design is reversible. It was commonly used on chemises, particularly collars, cuffs and sleeves, as shown by the detail from a portrait of Jane Seymour. It was also used to decorate household items such as cushions, pillows, and tablecloths.

Although generally defined as worked in black, red and white were also sometimes used, and household items were often done in more delicate pastel shades.

Design Elements

Two sorts of design elements are commonly used in all periods: outlining elements and filling open elements.

Outlining Elements

Outlining elements are either curvilinear or geometric in nature. Curvilinear outlines are predominantly used in Period designs, although geometric outlines have been found.

Filling Elements

Filling elements can be random, diaper, repeat or linear. Random elements may include the speckling stitches used to imitate shading of engravings or may be a large motif (such as a badge or other heraldic device) scattered across a large area.

Diaper elements are those patterns in which one sees horizontal, vertical and true diagonal lines, when turned from the original position to 90° or 45°. When turned 90 degrees, the original pattern does not change.

Repeat elements are those where the motifs are separated, but repeated, making a diaper or an offset repeat.

Linear elements are patterns in which one sees horizontal, vertical, diagonal or oblique stripes.

Resources

An excellent online source for blackwork is the Blackwork Archive site, where you can find a number of freely downloadable patterns.

Blackwork Stitches

Most blackwork is done in Holbein or double running stitch. This gives a continuous line of thread on both sides of the fabric and so makes it idea for things like collars and cuffs. This method only works, however, if the design is fully connected, i.e. if there are no motifs that are completely separated from each other. If there are separated motifs then the work will not be reversible.

Holbein stitch is worked in two passes. The first pass makes a line of running stitch along the design.

At the end of the line, reverse and fill in the gaps between the stitches.

This leaves you with a nice even line of stitching. One of the main features of blackwork is that you have a number of small designs branching off this main line. In this case you must analyse the pattern and plan ahead, working out what ‘side trips’ you have to make off your main line.

You then treat each of these side trips as if they were a small main journey, doing a first pass of running stitch around the side trip then reversing and filling in the gaps. You can then continue along your main line.