Initial Preparations
Goldwork is usually done on two layers of fabric; the upper layer upon which the gold thread is placed, and a under layer or lining. The upper layer should be strong and closely woven. Silk is ideal, but expensive! Velvet is difficult to work with but looks stunning. The lower layer can be cotton; its purpose is to support the weight of the metal threads and to prevent the upper layer from puckering.

Always use a frame. The fabric should be as tight as possible across the working surface. Ideally the frame should be large enough to encompass the entire design, but if you don’t have one large enough, use a roller frame as it minimises the stress put on the worked area when you roll it on. Hoop frames should only be used if the entire design falls comfortably within the hoop area – putting goldwork across the frame of the hoop will damage it. If you have a free-standing hoop or frame, use it if possible, as goldwork is much easier with two free hands than it is holding the frame with one.

If you intend to embroider onto clothing it is best to do the embroidery before cutting the pieces out if the piece is smaller than the frame. Otherwise, cut the pattern pieces out and then embroider them before making up the garment. Goldwork tends to be quite stiff and heavy once completed, so beware of getting overenthusiastic with the design, as it won’t drape well.

You will also need several sharp needles (I use quilting needles) to stitch the couching, together with several chenille needles (effectively pointed tapestry needles) to pass the gold threads to the back of the work. For large threads an awl or stiletto is useful for making a hole in the fabric to pass the metal threads through.